Hiking this loop in January meant that I could see the views from the peaks along the Duncan Ridge Trail, while the leaves are down. There is a good bit of climbing, so the colder weather was welcome and felt great most of the time.
We are lucky that Georgia has a great system of trails and there are many ways to create loops along them. This particular loop has recently been named the Georgia Loop. It includes a section of the Benton Mackaye, Duncan Ridge and Appalachian Trails. My total was 59 miles. I parked on the FS road at the Three Forks area in the Chattahoochee National Forest. (east of Springer Mt)
I planned to get it done in three days with a lot of down time to rest my feet, since I am using trail running shoes again, that are a little small and don't really support a 35lb pack.
I got to the trail head at about 7am and was ready to hit the trail at 7:35am. I started a little later than planned. A bout of insomnia earlier that week made me try to squeeze in an extra hour of rest.
The sunrise near the trail head. Lovely. No parked cars at Three Forks this morning. No one on the roads or trail. Peaceful.
Today's hike would start off easy and become moderate by mid-day.
The trail was crunchy with ice and the bridges were ice covered. There was no one about. Immediately my hip belt was digging deep into my IT band and gluts. I have had a really hard time with these areas getting super tight after my trail runs and it felt like I was laying on my foam roller continuously....it made my stomach turn. I had a thought that I might not be able to continue, but the woods were too amazing and I decided I would see if the muscles would loosen up along the way. (they did, later that afternoon)
At Three Forks, the AT and BMT run together for a very short bit across the forest service road, then separate and the BMT heads north and slightly west to start the loop. The weather was crisp and cool and it snowed on me for a short bit. I saw no one all morning as I hike the rolling trail, until I got past the suspension bridge. One guy was hiking with poles and no pack. He was checking the distance to the suspension bridge for a group hike he was planning. He said he hoped to hike the BMT through one of these days.
Suspension bridges are always a cool site. The sun was out and the sound of the river was cool.
I stopped for a snack. I didn't filter water, since I had loaded 3 liters and still had plenty left. It adds weight, but I always feel better carrying extra water.
By late afternoon, I was hitting the last part of the Benton Mackaye section and I was feeling the lack of sleep this week. I had a hard time climbing the last couple miles, but I knew it was a good warm-up for Duncan Ridge. I turned on my phone and sent a message to Shey saying this was hard and I was too far in sleep debt. He sent me an encouraging reply and I pressed on. He always has the right thing to say and I thought about his words for the next two days.
Duncan Ridge has similar elevation changes, but without the switchbacks. It climbs straight up each mountain and straight down the other side. The roller coaster ride through the gaps is pretty awesome. I keep telling myself I will get on it one day with a lightweight pack. I imagine the people who fast pack and run it, unsupported, have a great time. Time to go UP!
I was shooting for 20 miles a day and wanted to get into the DRT trail just a bit, before I made camp. It gets dark early in January, so at 5:30pm the sun was going down and I pulled out my headlamp. I decided to hike on for a couple hours or until I lost the trail. This first few miles isn't as well used as the rest of the trail and I had a hard time finding the trail the last time Shey and I came up here. I found a small walking stick to help me with the climbs and set to it. Within an hour I was a couple miles into the DRT and was lost in the leaves and decided to put up the tent and take off my shoes. I like to hike at night, so I was a bit bummed, but the blue markers on the trees are not reflective in my light and I needed to take care of my feet.
Benton Mackaye section and a bit into Duncan Ridge. 19.74 miles Day 1
I found a nice pile of leaves to make a soft bed and set up my tent. It set up nicely and I settled in for the night. I am a light sleeper, and at 7:30pm I was wondering how much sleep I would get. The next thing I know it is 11:30pm and all is still calm around. At 2:30am the wind really picked up and I could hear it howling all around, but not in my little hollow. I added my sleeping bag sack and tent bags over my feet to hold in heat. I was using two summer bags together and it was a bit chilly, but I was comfortable enough.
My feet bundled up in wool socks and covered in bags.
(I had just purchased my first light weight tent (used) and was thrilled with the FIVE lb difference in weight from my old tent. Here is the practice set-up at home.)
The next morning, I kept my feet up and got a late start at 8:05am. I immediately picked up the trail and as the miles went on the trail was much more defined.
Today's hike would be difficult due to repetitive climbing and descending.
At every climb I had to stop and take in the view. It was very windy and it felt great to have the wind on my face at each peak.
Vistas EVERYWHERE! I lost count of the climbs, but it was more than one per mile for the 20 mile length.
By the time I reached Mulky Gap, I was getting hungry and needed to replenish my water supply. There were several cars parked on the FS road there and as I set up my stove to make oatmeal, two runners came up the path.
"Hi, guys! Having a good run?"
"Well, we didn't get lost so it was good. You aren't doing the Georgia Loop, are you?"
"Yeah, that's my plan"
"Are you taking the week? When did you start?"
"Planning to do it in three days"
Looks of skepticism then smiles......."Have a good hike!"
I took forever to eat my oatmeal and stock up on water, then I trekked back to the trail. Oops, I forgot my walking stick, run back, get it, then head back to trail again.
At the start of this section, I saw three groups of hikers/runners. A GUTS group, who recognized me, a father and son, with the son looking quite grumpy, and two older gentlemen. Then I was alone again.
Some of the ice patches were long and I crawled on hands and knees, since I was alone and couldn't risk falling. Lots of ice on the shady sides of the mountains.
Once I climbed to Coosa Bald, there was a solo camper there. He was a young guy in his 20's and he pointed to the direction I came from and asked what was down there
"The trail just goes up and down and up and down."
"Oh, like a lot of switchbacks?"
"No, not really. Just straight up and straight down over and over again."
"Oh, I wondered what was down there. I always hike up from Vogel and camp here. Have you heard of the Georgia Loop?"
"Yes"
"You're not doing that are you?"
"Yep"
"Wow, that's inspiring. I hope to do that one day."
"Cool. Have a great day!"
The next campsite I came to was on the decent of Coosa Bald and there were two tents. It was about 3:30 in the afternoon and they were inside their tents. Weird. I was leery and kept alert. Then I smelled the pot. Ah, so that's why they are inside. More descending, then cross the road, where DRT and Coosa Backcountry Trail continue as one merged trail.
Across Wolf Pen Gap Rd/180 the trail heads straight up again and feels like Ducan Ridge, but with different scenery. Large cool rocks everywhere with moss on them. Twisting trail through the rocks. Sunset in the Coosa Backcountry.
And, here is where my phone dies. Sorry, no more photos. Unfortunately, the AT has the most gorgeous scenery, so you will have to troll in the interweb, or use your imagination.
Here is where I got a bit nervous. They have re-routed the DRT trail a good bit in a few areas. It has been many years since I have been on this section, but my subconscious remembered the original route. You can still see the old trail, but the new one is prominent. Also, the intersection to get onto the Appalachian Trail is new and easier, but not familiar.
Crap, I lost my walking stick. Where did I leave it? I told it, on a particularly gnarly climb on the DRT, that I would never leave it. I would take it home and it could meet the family. Crap. Hmm, it looks like someone else left their walking stick at that creek crossing. I pick it up and explain the situation to it. I will adopt it and keep it with me, but I will not forget the old stick that got me through 20 miles of a roller coaster trail. (hmmm, perhaps too much time alone?)
Now it was getting dark, but I wanted to continue on for a bit before I rested my feet. I came across two campers at a shelter. They were breaking wood for their fire and I could only make out their outlines. I debated whether seeking shelter with others or alone would be better. I decided alone.
I hiked on until I reached a place where there had been a camp, but it was not near any paved or FS roads or intersections of other trails. I would have a two mile to hike to get to Woody's in the morning.
DRT and a bit of the AT. 20.67 miles Day 2
I set up camp and rested for the night. It was colder and I constantly turned to keep different parts of my body warm throughout the night.
It the morning, I was up and ready to go at 7:05am. As I got closer to Woody's I saw three campsites with multiple tents. No one was up, yet, and I had the trail to myself.
Today's hike would be easy, with moderate climbs from the midpoint on. The AT always feels like a superhighway after hiking other local trails. I will make good time. (until my water ran out....)
The sunrise was blissful. The orange sun turned the sky immediately around it shades of purple, pink and red, while all the surrounding mountains were shrouded in fog, so that only their outlines could be seen. No words for it.....and no camera.
When I got within 1/4 mile of Woody's I came across two young men hiking and then two young couples in hoodies and no packs looking for a view. I directed them to the bald behind me about a mile or so or across the road to Preacher's Rock. I told them both had some climbing to do to reach the view, but it was worth it. The landscape and views along the AT are just amazing!
Woody's parking lot had at least 10 cars parked in it. After I crossed the road, I came across hikers, periodically, all the way into the early afternoon. I wasn't worried about making it back to Three Forks before sunset, because I knew the Appalachian Trail would be a much easier hike. And so it was, with rewarding views all along the way, until......I ran out of water.
Water is something I don't mess around with. I always carry too much and it drives Shey nuts to see me with all that extra weight, but it makes me feel secure. At around 1:30pm, I was sipping water, when it became hard to extract. Hmm, maybe the hose is pinched? I stopped to check it out, and realized I was out of water completely. How? I had hiked beside and crossed creeks all morning. How did I screw up? I knew I had drank at least 1.5 liters already this morning, so I wouldn't DIE, I would just be a little uncomfortable on the climbs until I hit water again. I only had 5 or 6 miles to go, so no worries.
I came upon two college guys and asked them if there was water soon. One of them said, there was, on the other side of the mountain. Cool. I sped up the mountain and over and ......nothing.
I hit three more climbs and came across a trio of hikers who are in the group that maintain the Foothills Trail in SC, that I love so much. I thanked them for their service and they inquired about my route. I said nothing about water and went on my way shortly.
I hit two more climbs, then I crossed a forest service road at Hightower Gap and BAM......a trickle of water! I didn't even look for the creek. I laughed and smiled and put 1.5 liters of water in my bladder and filled a cup with electrolytes. Yum! Happy happy and ready to cruise on the last 2 miles, or so.
I pre-estimated the total loop to be about 56 miles, so I was hoping now that it wouldn't be over 59. The trail descended into the Three Forks area and I cruised along quickly. I passed hikers finishing up for the day on the final stretch.
AT to Three Forks (start/finish) 20.66 miles Day 3. 59 miles total over three days.
My car was secure and in one piece! Yay! I threw my pack in the back and hit my SPOT one more time, so Shey would know i was finished. I didn't eat well along the trail, so I tried to force myself to eat what I had brought in the car, but my body wasn't ready to slow down yet.
I had several blisters on my feet, as expected, but this one was special.
I drove straight home, only stopping to get a hamburger by drive through. Shey had been riding in the mountains and got home about 30 minutes or so after. When he unloaded his car, he had taken a small duffel and sleeping bag, in case he needed to come find me. He is a good guy, for sure!
**
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